The Ride has come to a full stop. Or has it?
Certainly not for the next couple of days. Everybody has some time to spend here in St P. We have a few more activities planned, our friend Mario is also visiting - nice to meet the Serbs at the end, again - and there is A LOT of packing up to do.
Certainly not for me, either. Boris needs to go back home, and so does a considerable number of bikes and assorted equipment. I have two more weeks ahead of me, and might just crack the 10000 km barrier.
Certainly not for the project, while we're at it. This particular part of the project is over, and right on schedule, but now there is some serious follow-up to do, including our upcoming Closing Conference. And then, who knows? Everybody who has experienced this already knows there is no leaving RFYR.
The future holds many interesting things happening mostly on bikes. The Ride never stops.
Showing posts with label facts of life. Show all posts
Showing posts with label facts of life. Show all posts
Dec 31, 2011
facts of life: saw it with my own eyes
I was so exhausted after two and half months on the road that I wasn't even sure I could find the strength to celebrate. But seeing these people, who had come such a long way, had faced so many hardships and had experienced so many things, was something I was proud to witness.
This afternoon I saw a partial result of the project I've been working on for many months. We'll all need some rest to look at it from a safe distance, but it was an amazing thing, what happened here. Those smiles I saw were of happiness and pride. These people, and all the others that weren't here now, but were part of the group, had accomplished the impossible. They are examples of strength and determination.
That was a rare thing to see, and I'm glad I was there to see it.
This afternoon I saw a partial result of the project I've been working on for many months. We'll all need some rest to look at it from a safe distance, but it was an amazing thing, what happened here. Those smiles I saw were of happiness and pride. These people, and all the others that weren't here now, but were part of the group, had accomplished the impossible. They are examples of strength and determination.
That was a rare thing to see, and I'm glad I was there to see it.
facts of life: myth and reality
I swear I've heard every horror story about Russia ever spoken. While I still hope I'll see a bear on a unicycle, there are a few myths I need to bust right away.
The border is a male dominated place, but I was controlled by as many female officers as male officers. And I was thoroughly controlled!
The drivers are crazy and careless, but somehow they show respect for the riders. Much more than in other places, generally considered as "more civilized".
Russians are aggressive, but they are without question some of the most friendly people I've ever met.
I guess the people telling these horror stories have never been to Russia. However, they should. Might open their eyes and their minds a little bit.
The border is a male dominated place, but I was controlled by as many female officers as male officers. And I was thoroughly controlled!
The drivers are crazy and careless, but somehow they show respect for the riders. Much more than in other places, generally considered as "more civilized".
Russians are aggressive, but they are without question some of the most friendly people I've ever met.
I guess the people telling these horror stories have never been to Russia. However, they should. Might open their eyes and their minds a little bit.
facts of life: welcome to our checkpoint
Customs control. Love those words. They take me back...
Not alarmed from being separated from the cyclists, whose presence would no doubt help to explain many things going on in the back of the van, I took care of my own paperwork before speaking to the customs officers. The paper pushing went well until something in the customs form raised a question in my mind. Trying to explain the officer my question, it felt like the right thing to do, to take him to Boris and slide the door open.
The horror. The sheer horror in his eyes. Priceless.
The officer called another officer, whose English was a bit better and whose problem solving skills were also above average. "Just write down 10", he said. Priceless.
Back in the building, another officer decides that was not the correct way to fill out the forms. A long sequence of phone calls ensued, half of which I witnessed, when I wasn't busy moving the car to the inspection site and letting another officer have fun with a small knife and all those nice boxes. Tricky's statuette was the first target.
At some point the officer uncovers a plastic zip-lock bag with white powder residue. Looking puzzled, she asks the owner of the bag "Hashish?" - that's when I burst out laughing. Priceless.
Meanwhile the officer in the building had commandeered translators among the people minding their own business, and eventually we all agreed to a solution that would fit the formalities and ease my way out of the country on the my way back South. Took a while to sign all those forms, though...
Outside, I recovered the van, everything packed neatly again, and crossed into Russia. About time. I've earned it.
Not alarmed from being separated from the cyclists, whose presence would no doubt help to explain many things going on in the back of the van, I took care of my own paperwork before speaking to the customs officers. The paper pushing went well until something in the customs form raised a question in my mind. Trying to explain the officer my question, it felt like the right thing to do, to take him to Boris and slide the door open.
The horror. The sheer horror in his eyes. Priceless.
The officer called another officer, whose English was a bit better and whose problem solving skills were also above average. "Just write down 10", he said. Priceless.
Back in the building, another officer decides that was not the correct way to fill out the forms. A long sequence of phone calls ensued, half of which I witnessed, when I wasn't busy moving the car to the inspection site and letting another officer have fun with a small knife and all those nice boxes. Tricky's statuette was the first target.
At some point the officer uncovers a plastic zip-lock bag with white powder residue. Looking puzzled, she asks the owner of the bag "Hashish?" - that's when I burst out laughing. Priceless.
Meanwhile the officer in the building had commandeered translators among the people minding their own business, and eventually we all agreed to a solution that would fit the formalities and ease my way out of the country on the my way back South. Took a while to sign all those forms, though...
Outside, I recovered the van, everything packed neatly again, and crossed into Russia. About time. I've earned it.
facts of life: autumn cleaning
I've always been surprised by the things I find in the back of Boris, but for tomorrow, we'll have none of that.
As we prepare to cross the border, everything must be ready for inspection. After all, the customs check will probably be thorough, considering the amount of crap we bring with us. Meanwhile, we can clean out the old food from all those boxes.
Tonight, we pack. Tomorrow, we double-check. Just in case.
As we prepare to cross the border, everything must be ready for inspection. After all, the customs check will probably be thorough, considering the amount of crap we bring with us. Meanwhile, we can clean out the old food from all those boxes.
Tonight, we pack. Tomorrow, we double-check. Just in case.
facts of life: pure evil
As a group consisting mostly of dudes rode their bikes up the ramp and faced a welcoming party consisting mostly of gals, the look on some faces assumed hilarious proportions. When they were too tired to say yes to going out, I tried to keep my evil laughter to echo across the building.
I met Latvian students who keep a stash of Balzams at home. I'm so glad I'm didn't ride a bike today.
I met Latvian students who keep a stash of Balzams at home. I'm so glad I'm didn't ride a bike today.
facts of life: i fully understand
I've written before about language barriers. Today there were none. Not even different accents. Looking at the white board in the lab and understanding virtually everything that was going on, spectral analysis included, is the kind of the thing that makes me feel at home, too.
I imagine this was not the case for most of the others, however...
I imagine this was not the case for most of the others, however...
facts of life: small luxuries
The only thing missing in today's reception in Joensuu were concubines that would feed me grapes. There. I said it.
facts of life: out in the woods
Navigating oneself in the Finnish country roads is very educational. A wavy dirt road can go on for 20 ~ 30 km, but every once in a while there will be a small sign indicating a smaller, wavier dirt road leading somewhere else. This is the closest they have to street names around here.
And while the Finns clearly have quality of life, with their wonderful houses and a sauna next to each room, there is one things these guys love: is going into the woods. Every day I see pimped up trucks with bullbars and spotlights, driven by rugged, bearded individuals dressed in fatigues. I guess the comfort of their homes will never trump the kick they get when they disappear into the wild for a week, hunting moose.
Speaking of moose, haven't spotted a single one so far. Neither has Matt, but he's more interested in reindeer.
And while the Finns clearly have quality of life, with their wonderful houses and a sauna next to each room, there is one things these guys love: is going into the woods. Every day I see pimped up trucks with bullbars and spotlights, driven by rugged, bearded individuals dressed in fatigues. I guess the comfort of their homes will never trump the kick they get when they disappear into the wild for a week, hunting moose.
Speaking of moose, haven't spotted a single one so far. Neither has Matt, but he's more interested in reindeer.
facts of life: it's a tiny, tiny world
I knew this day would come. Well into dinner, while going for a second round of the most amazing smoked salmon soup I've ever tasted, the man behind the counter asked us where we were from. Surprise, surprise. He's Portuguese.
Surely the odds of finding a fellow countryman around here are slim, but to find a fellow countryman who offers to pack some food for the next day is beyond belief! Also, I enjoy every chance I get to make Julian speak Portuguese. We both need to practice that forgotten language...
Surely the odds of finding a fellow countryman around here are slim, but to find a fellow countryman who offers to pack some food for the next day is beyond belief! Also, I enjoy every chance I get to make Julian speak Portuguese. We both need to practice that forgotten language...
facts of life: cultural shock
"No smoking campus? Really? Fine, I'll walk over there. Yeah, I understand, but when did the children ever think of ME?"
facts of life: reboot
When things stop working, just start over.
Since our system was no longer appropriate, we backed away, regrouped and came up with a decent working system. The morning conference was a definite turning point. It won't make any of us less exhausted, but it's easier when everyone knows and does exactly what they're supposed to. This is all made possible, of course, by the excellent organization here in Finland. Our friends from the University of Eastern Finland put a tight plan together for us, covering almost our every need and taking turns meeting us along the way.
Here's an ideal day in Finland:
- wake up at 7, breakfast at 8, leaving at 9, or close enough;
- the riders leave;
- I load up the van, because I'm a puzzle master;
- I conduct a last sweep and lock the place down, because a lost cell phone can mean a 300 km round trip;
- I take the common food money and do the grocery shopping, cringing when faced with the prices;
- I do something specific, like visiting 12 gas stations, 2 supermarkets and a camping equipment store, only to conclude we're not using the camping stove anymore;
- I keep in contact with our local team to figure out the way to the most unusual locations;
- I conduct a conversation with a man of the Church while driving parallel to his car, on dirt roads;
- I arrive on the designated location and inspect the place for sanitary facilities and storage for bikes and equipment;
- I meet our local organizer, we unload the van and distribute the luggage;
- I start cooking, making use of one of the nicest kitchens I've ever seen;
- I greet the riders and give them a briefing on the site conditions;
- I have a cigarette and a beer before dinner, because I've earned it.
Unlikely to repeat itself, but I love it when a plan comes together.
Since our system was no longer appropriate, we backed away, regrouped and came up with a decent working system. The morning conference was a definite turning point. It won't make any of us less exhausted, but it's easier when everyone knows and does exactly what they're supposed to. This is all made possible, of course, by the excellent organization here in Finland. Our friends from the University of Eastern Finland put a tight plan together for us, covering almost our every need and taking turns meeting us along the way.
Here's an ideal day in Finland:
- wake up at 7, breakfast at 8, leaving at 9, or close enough;
- the riders leave;
- I load up the van, because I'm a puzzle master;
- I conduct a last sweep and lock the place down, because a lost cell phone can mean a 300 km round trip;
- I take the common food money and do the grocery shopping, cringing when faced with the prices;
- I do something specific, like visiting 12 gas stations, 2 supermarkets and a camping equipment store, only to conclude we're not using the camping stove anymore;
- I keep in contact with our local team to figure out the way to the most unusual locations;
- I conduct a conversation with a man of the Church while driving parallel to his car, on dirt roads;
- I arrive on the designated location and inspect the place for sanitary facilities and storage for bikes and equipment;
- I meet our local organizer, we unload the van and distribute the luggage;
- I start cooking, making use of one of the nicest kitchens I've ever seen;
- I greet the riders and give them a briefing on the site conditions;
- I have a cigarette and a beer before dinner, because I've earned it.
Unlikely to repeat itself, but I love it when a plan comes together.
facts of life: after the storm
Finally reunited with the group and good old Boris, I resumed my work, but still feeling shaken up by the nightmarish sequence of the past couple of days. This kind of stress wears a man out, but now is the time I am most needed.
When we included Finland in our itinerary, we knew it would be a challenge. Not only are the distances much longer, but also the weather is a bit cooler. Now is the moment when proper logistic support is necessary.
My head is not 100% clear and today was not an example of how things should work in this caravan. Plus, the camping gas bottles are both empty. BSoD. What a wonderful moment to reboot the machine.
When we included Finland in our itinerary, we knew it would be a challenge. Not only are the distances much longer, but also the weather is a bit cooler. Now is the moment when proper logistic support is necessary.
My head is not 100% clear and today was not an example of how things should work in this caravan. Plus, the camping gas bottles are both empty. BSoD. What a wonderful moment to reboot the machine.
Dec 29, 2011
the Boris diaries, now without Boris
- This driver has a problem. This driver has no vehicle to drive.
So there I was, catching a bus to Riga at 6h30 in the morning and wondering what else could possibly go wrong. Because of my visa which was not picking itself up from the Russian consulate, I couldn't take Boris to the mechanic myself. This was an absolute disaster.
Back in Riga for the third time this Summer (oh, the joy), I spent hours wandering about, waiting for the time to get back my passport. Without it, I wouldn't be driving across the border anyway. Over lunch with my guardian angel (mysteriously absent at the time of the dreaded events), I realized that the group was then spread out across three different countries. Painful.
My visit to the consulate was swift and effective. With the visa problem finally out of the way, it was time to learn about the car problem.
- This driver has an effective backup team.
Even though we already had a diagnostic from Tricky (the man can fix almost anything), the visit to the mechanic turned out to be quite long, but with the obvious advantage of having the problem solved that day. Boris was fixed, and Julian and Andi still caught the ferry. Everybody was finally in Helsinki.
- This driver, however, is left behind.
I managed to make a few phone calls, and with Indre's help (from Kaunas to Tallinn, always there) I was provided a couch to get some sleep and catch the first ferry in the morning. Reservations made in Riga, since I had to wait for so long.
One problem was solved, but this was the kind of situation that could jeopardize months of many people's work. Finland would provide a nice setting for this act to be pulled together....
So there I was, catching a bus to Riga at 6h30 in the morning and wondering what else could possibly go wrong. Because of my visa which was not picking itself up from the Russian consulate, I couldn't take Boris to the mechanic myself. This was an absolute disaster.
Back in Riga for the third time this Summer (oh, the joy), I spent hours wandering about, waiting for the time to get back my passport. Without it, I wouldn't be driving across the border anyway. Over lunch with my guardian angel (mysteriously absent at the time of the dreaded events), I realized that the group was then spread out across three different countries. Painful.
My visit to the consulate was swift and effective. With the visa problem finally out of the way, it was time to learn about the car problem.
- This driver has an effective backup team.
Even though we already had a diagnostic from Tricky (the man can fix almost anything), the visit to the mechanic turned out to be quite long, but with the obvious advantage of having the problem solved that day. Boris was fixed, and Julian and Andi still caught the ferry. Everybody was finally in Helsinki.
- This driver, however, is left behind.
I managed to make a few phone calls, and with Indre's help (from Kaunas to Tallinn, always there) I was provided a couch to get some sleep and catch the first ferry in the morning. Reservations made in Riga, since I had to wait for so long.
One problem was solved, but this was the kind of situation that could jeopardize months of many people's work. Finland would provide a nice setting for this act to be pulled together....
facts of life: the storm hits
This is all we needed. Boris with mechanical problems. Serious mechanical problems. The logistical backbone of this whole operation in compromised and I won't be the one taking it to the mechanic, because my presence is required at the Russian consulate in Riga (!), so we're all in for a treat.
The crisis meeting where the riders were briefed on the present situation was one of those moments you wish you'd never have to witness, let alone be right in the middle of it. The exhaustion of two whole months on the road is hitting us all pretty badly and morale is at an all-time low.
This is necessarily a turning point. For good or bad. The way we handle this situation determines everything. Not just in this particular moment.
The crisis meeting where the riders were briefed on the present situation was one of those moments you wish you'd never have to witness, let alone be right in the middle of it. The exhaustion of two whole months on the road is hitting us all pretty badly and morale is at an all-time low.
This is necessarily a turning point. For good or bad. The way we handle this situation determines everything. Not just in this particular moment.
facts of life: first signs of the storm
I walked into Tallinn before I drove into Tallinn. This can't be good.
facts of life: everybody loves a warm shower
Today, for the second time, the group left in the morning and we stayed behind for a while. Once again, by the time I arrived on destination, I was greeted by a group of people in desperate need to run some hot water to forget about the cold and the rain from the day's ride.
Any traveler should know this: never take your luggage for granted.
Any traveler should know this: never take your luggage for granted.
facts of life: self medication
Burning up in fever and trying to stay alive in the hopes that it will all go away soon, I have only three allies: a strong sense of duty, a box of paracetamol and an anonymous rider that always finds a way for us to sleep indoors. Amazing.
facts of life: family treatment
I was impressed by the commitment of our Latvian team since the very beginning, but today showed me that our team members are putting their hearts and souls into this project. Not only did they put together an amazing plan, but they also joined us on their bikes and welcomed us into their homes.
Dita, Aija, Kaspars and their families made this part of the way one of the most special in the whole ride. And I have the feeling I might still bump into some acquaintance here in Salacgriva. As long as I survive the fever...
Dita, Aija, Kaspars and their families made this part of the way one of the most special in the whole ride. And I have the feeling I might still bump into some acquaintance here in Salacgriva. As long as I survive the fever...
facts of life: a few loose notes on a busy day
1) I never thought I'd live to see the day when a man in red speedos runs into a wedding party going for the photo shoot and tries to talk his way into taking a bottle of shampanietis.
2) Apparently, it is possible for a Polish speaker to have a conversation with a Russian speaker with few losses of information. Also, I should really improve my Latvian.
3) Falling ill on such a beautiful day is bad. Having a homemade soup and a chat with granny is good. Being stung by a hornet just before going to sleep is just uncalled for.
2) Apparently, it is possible for a Polish speaker to have a conversation with a Russian speaker with few losses of information. Also, I should really improve my Latvian.
3) Falling ill on such a beautiful day is bad. Having a homemade soup and a chat with granny is good. Being stung by a hornet just before going to sleep is just uncalled for.
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